The atyid shrimp Neocaridina davidi, generally known as “Red Cherry shrimp” or “RCS”. They are extremely popular and widespread across the world in the aquarium industry (since the first introduction in 2003). Their bright red color really adds beauty to the aquarium. Red cherry shrimp are easy to breed and keep especially because they are very hardy. These shrimp can live in conditions that would be considered too extreme for other types of the shrimp.
Aquarists love them because they are outstanding maintenance crews and will stand out in the aquarium especially against plants and darker substrates. However, despite its popularity, basic information on the biology of this species is still scarce in the literature.
In this article, you will know that fertilized eggs have an oval shape with color varies from greenish to yellowish. The eggs size is comparatively large, with an average diameter of 1.19 mm. Depending on the temperature the embryonic development of the eggs can last from 25 to 35 days. Newly hatched shrimplets look like a tiny version of the adult shrimp with an average total length of 2.3 mm.
There are 16 stages of post-hatching development of the baby cherry shrimp. That shrimp female can usually produce about 21-51 shrimplets per hatching. Larger females produce more shrimplets. It takes around 60 days for the cherry shrimplets to reach the juvenile stage. Until then it is not possible to differentiate males from females with the naked eye.
Juveniles become adults 15 days later. Females are obvious with the presence of orange-colored ovary at the cephalothorax region. Within 1 to 3 days, these males and females are ready to spawn.
You can read more about “How Temperature Affects Sex Ration of Red Cherry Shrimp” right here.
References
There are not many types of research and reports about this particular species breeding and life cycle. In order to fill this gap I decided to write an article based on conducted experiments:
- Breeding and Life Cycle of Neocaridina denticulata sinensis. Asian Journal of Animal and Veterinary Advances 8 (1): 108-115, 2013). I have tried to collect everything I could about the breeding activities and life cycle of the shrimplets until adulthood.
- Pictures credit: Pantaleão, J.A.F., Gregati, R.A., da Costa, R.C., López‐Greco, L.S. and Negreiros‐Fransozo, M.L. (2017), Post‐hatching development of the ornamental ‘Red Cherry Shrimp’ Neocaridina davidi (Bouvier, 1904) (Crustacea, Caridea, Atyidae) under laboratorial conditions. Aquac Res, 48: 553-569. doi:10.1111/are.12903
The article is rather big and full of scientific terminology. For those who are too lazy to read the whole article, I have summarized it above in a simple way. However, if you want to read everything in detail, get comfortable, and let’s start.
Experiment conditions (Tank preparation, feeding, water quality)
During the experiment, females, ovigerous females, males, shrimplets had different aquariums with aerated tap water. Once a week the researchers did a water change around 50% and feed them 2 times a day with 40% protein. Only healthy specimen participated in all stages of the experiments.
Water parameters:
Note: there is a popular rumor in shrimp breeding community that too much protein (more than 40%) can be bad for the shrimp. Allegedly, it may disrupt a metabolic process in their digestion. Shrimp will get sick and can die, eventually.
Frankly saying, I have not found any proof for that. Moreover, I have read several different kinds of research about shrimps and almost all the time researchers give them a lot of protein (40%). I have not seen any reports that it caused the death of the shrimp. Anyway, I prefer to play on the safe side if I am not certain about something.
At thirst, the researchers placed shrimplets (one week old) in the tank. They observed it until all the shrimplets reached the first maturity. After that researchers measured Neocaridina shrimp from rostral tip to posteromedian margin of the telson (the last segment in the abdomen), excluding posterior setae.
The difference of Neocaridina and Caridina Shrimp
Neocaridina shrimp is an indigenous species of Japan, Korea, China, Vietnam, and Taiwan. Previously Neocaridina shrimp was incorrectly identified as Caridina weberi. A little bit later scientists reclassified Neocaridina shrimp. From that moment they based a new classification on the morphological difference in the male that is the presence of endopod on the first pleopod.
In short, the shape and size of the reproductive appendage are different. On Neocaridina the end of the appendage is round and flat. While the end of the Caridina species appendage is longer but slender than that of the Neocaridina shrimp. That is the reason why these two species cannot interbreed. Their organs just do not fit together.
You can read more about “The Difference between Neocaridina and Caridina Shrimp” right here.
Maturity and Mating of Neocaridina shrimp
Red cherry shrimp usually reached maturity at around 75 days old with a length of about 2.3±0.2 cm. When they reach maturity, we can see:
- Orange-colored ovaries through the cephalothorax region of the females ( 1).
- That the males have an appendix masculina on the second pleopod ( 2).
A mature female picks up eggs in the ovary, which is located at the junction of the cephalothorax (carapax) with the tail (abdomen). For a characteristic location and a special form, aquarists call the ovaries a “saddle”. The mating process usually takes place in 1-3 day(s) after the introduction of male and female into the same tank.
You can read more about “Shrimp Gender. Female and Male Difference” right here.
Mating of the Red cherry shrimp
When the eggs “ripen”, the female starts molting. They always molt before mating because at that time new female cuticle is soft and flexible, which makes fertilization possible. The molting process happens very fast and takes no more than 10-15 seconds.
After that, the female releases a certain chemical substance (pheromone) into the surrounding water. It is the signal for the males that she is ready to mate. The “smell” attracts the males and allows them to find the female in the water column.
If you notice that some shrimp rush feverishly around the aquarium from corner to corner, this means that one of the females has just molted. That is him responding to the hormones and he will try to find that female and mate with her.
The mating occurs rapidly as well – about 10 seconds or less. In order to start mating, male and female should face each other. The male leaves sperm into the genital opening of the female Neocaridina shrimp using its appendix masculine.
After that, the female starts moving the eggs from the “saddle” to the brood pouch and at that moment the eggs go through the sperm and become fertilized. Therefore, it is certain that any shrimp carrying eggs have mated. A female carrying eggs under her abdomen is said to be “berried”.
Fertilized eggs of Neocaridina shrimp
It is very hard to see the process of moving eggs from the saddle to the abdomen because females hide all the time at this stage. Nonetheless, there are some reports that to do so the female lies on her side and bends her abdomen. As a result, the eggs start falling into this area.
The pouch itself is formed by pleopods and overhanging of pleura of the female. The female holds the eggs in the brood pouch until the hatching day. This kind of parental care will result in a higher survival rate of the shrimplets.
Fertilized eggs have an oval shape and vary from greenish to yellowish in color. The egg size is rather large, with an average length of 1.19 mm. A thin ribbon-like filament binds the eggs in grape-like bunches and attached them to the female’s pleopod. It is almost impossible to distinguish the membrane since it is very thin and transparent.
You can also read my article “Missing Shrimp Eggs: Why This Occurs”.
Eggs development of the Red cherry shrimp
There are three stages of eggs development as follows:
– Stage I
Developing: thin, pale orange, filling one-third of the cephalothorax volume;
– Stage II
Mature: orange, filling two-thirds of the cephalothorax volume;
– Stage III
Ripe or almost ripe: deep orange, filling almost all of the cephalothorax.
In the process of embryogenesis, the shrimplets pass through 9-12 stages. At this time, changes are taking place in their structure: at the beginning of the mandible, and a little later, the cephalothorax.
Cherry shrimp will keep fanning its eggs with its hind pleopods and washing them with water until the eggs are ready to hatch. Depending on the temperature, egg incubation can last from 25 to 35 days.
The shortest incubation period 15 days takes place at 27°C. The eggs start to have lighter in color and translucent just before hatching. Closer to the hatching day it is possible to notice black dots on the eggs (eyes on the young shrimp).
The early development of the Red cherry shrimp
Examples of shrimp development on early stages
| Name | 1st stage | 2nd stage | 3d stage |
| Carapace | Carapace: spineless; rostrum slightly exceeding the eye stalks. Several round balls of yolk are visible in the median region of the carapace through the transparent exoskeleton.
Rostrum with 3–4 small teeth dorsally, and 1 tooth, 1 simple seta and 1 plumose seta ventrally. Abdomen: six-segmented, with the sixth separated from the telson.
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Carapace: similar to the previous stage
Rostrum has seven teeth on dorsal margin, one tooth, one simple seta and one plumose seta on ventral margin. Abdomen: some small simple setae present on fifth and sixth segment.
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Carapace: similar to previous Stage.
Rostrum has eight dorsal teeth; one plumose seta and one tooth on ventral margin. Abdomen: similar to previous stage, except for third somite, which is larger than others.
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| Antennule | Antennule: 3-segmented peduncle, proximal segment with very small and spiny stylocerite bearing three simple setae on latero-distal margin and a small knob-like apical spine.
Four small plumose setae in angle located between stylocerite and basal segment. There is a simple seta on the median margin at the opposite side of the stylocerite. One, 3 and 3 plumose setae on ventromedian margin of basal, second and third segments of peduncle respectively. Dorsal margin of the peduncle with two small simple setae, two serrated setae and four plumose setae on basal segment, three serrated setae and two small simple setae on second segment, and one simple seta on the third segment. Ventral flagellum with six segments of similar size with 0, 2, 3, 0, 4 and 3 simple setae respectively. Dorsal flagellum with six segments, but the total length is shorter than the ventral flagellum. This flagellum has zero, two simple setae, three aestethascs, zero, three simplesetae and four simple setae respectively.
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Antennule: Peduncle 3-segmented, proximal segment with a stylocerite bearing three simple setae on laterodistal margin; and four small plumose setae in angle between stylocerite and basal segment. Proximal segment also has subterminal plumose setae, 10 terminal plumose setae and one serrated seta. Second segment with two lateral plumose setae, four terminal plumose setae and third serrated setae. Third segment with four terminal plumose setae and four (2 + 2) simple setae. Ventral flagellum six-segmented with 0, 3, 0, 3, 1 and 3 simple setae. Dorsal flagellum sixsegmented with 0, 1, 0, 0 3 and 3 simple setae respectively. Three aestethascs present on ventral margin of third segment.
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Antennule: Peduncle similar to previous
stage. Proximal segment has one lateral and subterminal, and one lateral and terminal plumose setae; 11 terminal plumose setae and two serrated setae. Second segment with three lateral plumose setae and one simple seta; two terminal plumose setae and one simple seta and four terminal serrated setae. Third segment with four terminal setae (two short) and five simple setae. Ventral flagellum nine-segmented with 4, 0, 4, 4, 0, 2, 0, 4 and 3 simple setae. Dorsal flagellum sixsegmented with 1, 1, 0, 0, 4 and 4 simple setae respectively. Three short aestethascs present on ventral margin of third segment.
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| Antenna | Antenna: long, with the flagellum curved and reaching over back of the carapace Peduncle bearing three simple setae and one plumose seta. Flagellum with 42 segments, approximately, bearing sparse simple setae on it.
Scaphocerite (exopod) with a large apical spine and three small simple setae on dorsal margin; ventral margin with 21 plumose setae.
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Antenna: Peduncle bearing one plumose
seta and two simple setae. Flagellum with approximately 49 segments, bearing one plumose and two simple setae on first segment, sparse simple setae on other segments. Scaphocerite with a large apical spine and three small simple setae on dorsal margin; ventral margin with 22 plumose setae.
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Antenna: Peduncle smooth. Flagellum
with 56–59 segments bearing three simple setae on first segment, and other segments with sparse simple setae. Scaphocerite with a large apical spine and three small simple setae on dorsal margin; ventral margin with one simple seta and 22–24 plumose setae.
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| Mandible | Mandible: incisor process with three small teeth, median portion with three rows of fine simple setae (4 + 5 + 3), and molar process rounded and smooth. No palp.
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Mandible: incisor process with three teeth, median portion with three rows of setae bearing three plumose setae, seven simple setae and four simple setae; molar process rounded and smooth. No palp.
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Mandible: incisor process with four teeth, median portion with two rows of setae bearing three plumose and five simple setae; molar process rounded with 25–27 serrated setae. No palp.
|
| Maxillule | Maxillule: rudimentary. Unsegmented endopod with one very small spine distally. Basial endite with 10–11 short serrate setae. Coxal endite with three small spines.
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Maxillule: unsegmented endopod with one small spine and one simple seta, distally.
Basial endite with two plumose setae distally, 13–15 short serrated setae, two to three plumose and two to three serrated setae marginally; coxal endite with two small plumose setae, 18–20 median plumose setae marginally and six to seven serrated setae, eight spines on its surface.
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Maxillule: similar to previous stage.
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| Maxilla | Maxilla: Scaphognathite with four plumose setae on proximal portion, four serrulate setae apically and 30–31 plumose setae from median to distal portion. Endopod reduced. Basial endite
with 14 min serrated setae on proximal lobe, and 6 min serrated setae on distal lobe. Coxal endite unilobed with 21 simple setae.
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Maxilla: Scaphognathite with two plumose setae proximally, four serrulate setae apically, and 27–29 plumose setae along median to distal. Endopod reduced. Basial endite with approximately 28 simple setae on proximal lobe; approximately nine simple setae and three plumose setae on distal lobe. Coxal endite unilobed with approximately
30 simple setae.
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Maxilla: Scaphognathite with six plumose setae proximally, seven serrulate setae apically, and 34–35 plumose setae from median to distal. Endopod reduced with one simple seta.
Basial endite with approximately 40 simple setae on proximal lobe; and approximately 10–12 simple setae, four plumose setae and one sparsely plumose seta on distal lobe. Coxal endite unilobed with 40–43 simple setae.
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| First maxilliped | First maxilliped: biramous. Endopod reduced with one small plumose seta. Basial endite with approximately 18 serrated setae. Coxal endite with five simple setae. Exopod unsegmented, enlarged from proximal to one-third before the distal part; 17–18 plumose setae on enlarged part and one plumose and one small sparsely plumose
setae on distal part. Epipod reduced and smooth.
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First maxilliped: biramous. Endopod
reduced with two small plumose setae. Basial endite with microtrichia on dorsal margin, third plumose setae on terminal end and five sparsely plumose setae on median margin; several small spoon-tipped setae on median margin. Coxal endite with 11 plumose setae. Exopod similar to previous stage with 16 plumose setae on enlarged part, three sparsely plumose and one plumose seta on distal part. Epipod very reduced.
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First Maxilliped: Endopod reduced
with 1–2 small plumose setae. Basial endite with microtrichia on dorsal margin, three plumose setae on terminal end; approximately two rows of 16–18 plumose setae each on median margin; approximately 70 spoon-tipped setae distributed in 4 rows. Coxal endite with 11 plumose setae. Exopod unsegmented, similar to previous stage with 19–20 plumose setae on enlarged part and three to five sparsely plumose setae on distal part. Epipod very reduced.
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| Second maxilliped | Second maxilliped: biramous. Endopod fur-segmented, shorter than exopod, bearing 0, 0, 5, 11 small serrated setae. Exopod long with four long terminal plumose setae. Epipod reduced and smooth.
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Second maxilliped: biramous. Protopod with one simple seta and four plumose setae. Endopod four-segmented bearing zero, one plumose seta, four plumose setae and two simple setae, and three plumose and 16–20 plumose brush-like setae respectively. Exopod long with four long terminal plumose and one simple seta.
Epipod reduced and smooth.
|
Second Maxilliped: Protopod with
sixto seven plumose setae. Endopod four-segmented bearing one plumose seta on first segment; no seta on second segment; three plumose and three simple setae on third segment; threeplumose setae and two rows of 11–13 plumose brush-like setae each and one row of five to six plumose setae. Exopod long with four long terminal plumose and one simple seta. Epipod reduced and smooth.
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| Third Maxilliped | Third maxilliped: biramous. Endopod four-segmented, first and second segment with six and eight simple setae, respectively; third segment with 2 simple setae, 1 plumose setae and 14 (3 + 5 + 3 + 3) cuspidate setae; and fourth segment with three fine simple setae and three short and enlarge serrated setae. Exopod shorter than endopod, bearing four long terminal plumose and one small simple seta. Epipod as a small bud.
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Third maxilliped: biramous. Protopod with five simple and six plumose setae. Endopod 4-segmented with 5, 8, 3 and 2 simple setae and 4 serrated setae. Third segment has 16 (5 + 5 + 3 + 3) cuspidate setae. Exopod shorter than endopod, bearing four long terminal plumose and one simple seta. Epipod as a small bud.
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Third Maxilliped: Protopod with eight simple setae and six plumose setae. Endopod foursegmented.
First segment with two plumose, six simple and two serrated setae; second segment with 11 simple setae; third segment with three simple and four rows of 5–6, 5–6, 4 and 3-4 cuspidate setae; fourth segment with four simple and five serrated setae. Exopod with four long terminal plumose and one simple seta. Epipod represented by a bud.
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| Pereiopods | Pereiopods: 1st and 2nd chelate, 5-segmented, former shorter than later. Both chelipeds bear very small simple setae on the tip of the dactylus and propodus, and some sparse simple setae on all segments. A slender serrulated seta present on the dorsal margin of the basis, which is common for all pereiopods except for the fifth. The dactylus of the third, fourth and fifth pereiopods is provided with a terminal claw and 2, 2 and 6 small and strong serrated setae respectively. Third, fourth and fifth pereiopods with some serrated setae on ventral margin of merus, carpus and propodus.
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Pereiopods: both chelipeds similar as in previous stages, except for the presence of several serrated and pappose brush-like setae on tips of dactylus and propodus. Some sparse simple setae present on all segments. Dactylus of third, fourth and fifth pereiopods with a claw and 2, 1 and 5 small and strong serrated setae. Third and fourth pereiopods with one plumose seta on dorsal margin of merus; fifth pereiopod with one plumose seta on dorsal margin of ischium and merus.
Third, fourth and fifth pereopods with some serrated setae on ventral margin of merus, carpus and propodus.
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Pereiopods: similar to previous stage. Dactylus of last three pereiopods with a claw and 2, 2 and 7 small and strong serrated setae. Fifth pereiopod has no plumose setae on ischium. Third, fourth and fifth pereopods with some serrated setae on ventral margin of merus, carpus and propodus.
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| Pleopods | Pleopods: all five biramous and bearing a simple setae on protopod. Exopods with 10, 11, 10, 10 and 10 plumose setae. The second and the fifth pairs also have one simple seta on the distal margin of the exopod. Endopods with 3, 6, 7, 7 and 6 plumose setae on terminal margin. The fifth pleopod also has one plumose seta on its proximal margin. All the endopods of pleopods, except for the first, have a fully developed appendix interna with four cincinnuli each.
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Pleopods: very similar to previous stage. | Pleopods: similar to previous stages, but the seta number can vary. All five pleopods have one simple seta on protopod. Last four pleopods with appendix interna and four cincinnulli.
First pleopod with four and 11 plumose setae on endopod and exopod respectively. Second pleopod with eight plumose setae and one simple seta on endopod, and 11 plumose setae and one simple seta on exopod. Third pleopod with 7 and 12 plumose setae on endopod and exopod respectively. Fourth pleopod with 8 and 10 plumose setae on endopod and exopod respectively; one plumose seta on proximal portion of endopod. Fifth pleopod with 7 and 10 plumose setae on endopod and exopod respectively; one plumose seta on proximal region of endopod.
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| Telson and Uropods | – | Telson and Uropods: biramous. Exopod with five simple setae on its dorsal margin; and one terminal spine, three simple setae, 16–20 plumose setae and one small seta distributed along postero-ventral margin. Endopod with 14–17 plumose setae and one simple seta along postero-ventral margin.
Telson: longer than wide bearing three serrated setae, five plumose setae and two fine simple setae on its postero-lateral margin. Surface smooth
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Telson and Uropods: Exopod with five simple and one plumose setae on dorsal margin; one spine and two serrated setae terminally; rounded by 22–24 plumose setae. Some small setae hair-like and plumose setae present between terminal spines and the set of plumose setae. Endopod with 20–23 plumose setae.
Telson: longer than wide with 5 + 5 plumose setae on posterior margin. Three serrated setae on each side of postero-lateral margin.
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Classification of the early development of the shrimp
The early development of the atyid shrimp is very diverse with species showing common, abbreviated, and completely suppressed types. Some authors have emphasized the importance of the egg’s size and the shrimplets morphology to classify the early development of shrimps.
Following such arguments, we have three categories:
- the common type of early development has from 9 to 12 planktonic stages, and the pleopods of the first stage are not yet developed;
- the abbreviated type has fewer (from 4 to 7) planktonic stages, and the pleopods of the first stage are still only rudiments and
- the complete suppressed type has no planktonic stage, and the pleopods are well developed.
Red cherry shrimp development follows the third type. When pereiopods and pleopods completely developed. Nevertheless, some variation could occur in species showing intermediate development.
Newly “born” cherry shrimp look like miniature versions of the adult with an average length of 2.3±0.5 mm and an average height of less than 1mm.
Right after hatching baby shrimps will hide for 3-4 days. They are small, transparent, and remain consistently near the bottom, walls, leaves and in the Java moss for better protection. They molt after 1st day.
Note: Actually, shrimplets grow very quickly and often molts.
The sex of the shrimp is not clear during the early stages. From Stage 7 onwards, the sex could be determined despite its inconspicuous characteristic by using special tools.
Food and baby cherry shrimps
Young shrimp does not search for food until Stage 3. At the initial stage of development, shrimplets feed on stocks of egg yolk.
Moreover, shrimplets at this (protozoan) stage cannot efficiently seek food as the swimming appendages do not work properly yet.
In the later stages, the shrimplets are able to feed on zooplankton. That is why it is vital to feed them in sufficient quantity with powder food in your aquarium. Each day baby shrimps consume approximately 2% of the average weight of their body.
Related article:
Morphological descriptions of post-hatching stages of Red cherry shrimp
From the third post-hatching stage on, there are slight alterations in shape and setation. Most of these changes are related to the size and number of setae.
The number of eggs
The number of eggs depends on the weight and size of the female. The bigger the female the more eggs she can carry. It ranged from 21-51 shrimplets per hatching, and increased linearly (R2 = 0.9587) with the size of the female.
In nature, most of the hatched shrimplets die due to adverse conditions or because of predators. As a rule, maturity reaches only 5-10% of the brood.
Another important factor affecting the reproduction of the shrimp is overpopulation. In this case, shrimp spend all their energy on keeping their living space. Thus it prevents them from multiplying.
So if you have a lot of shrimps in the aquarium, it should not surprise you that at one point they will stop breeding. In addition, that kind of closeness increases the risk of the rapid spread of diseases.
Note #2: If you are impatient and want to see the shrimplets after hatching there is a way to do it. You need to turn off the light in the room. The aquarium lamp should be directed straight down from above so that the light will penetrate through the water column towards the bottom. Therefore, the floating shrimplets will have shadows and you can see them. Some people confuse baby shrimps with parasites and drain the allegedly “dirty” water. As a result, they remain without baby shrimps.
After 60 days, shrimplets reach the juvenile stage. At this stage, it is not possible to distinguish male and female with the naked eye yet.
The juvenile stage lasts around 15 days. At this time sex differences start to show themselves clearly.
After that, juvenile shrimp reach adulthood and first maturity. Thus completing the life cycle of the Red Cherry shrimp.
Info: During the study period, it was found that shrimplets and adult shrimp cultured in freshwater were susceptible to clitellate annelids, (Holtodrilus sp.) resulted in high mortality. Holtodrilus sp. spread all over the body surface of Neocaridina shrimp with a higher concentration around the appendages. Culture of this species in slight saline conditions between 5-10 ppt can effectively treat this parasite-worm.
You can read more about it in my article “Holtodrilus Truncates – Parasites in Shrimp Keeping Hobby”.
Conclusion
1. As we can see, Neocaridina shrimp can successfully breed even in laboratory conditions using a simple experimental setup.
2. Neocaridina shrimp lack the planktonic larval stage, therefore, it is a completely suppressed type based on the type.
3. The number of eggs produced per female of the cherry shrimp is depending on the size of the female. Smaller females produced fewer eggs compared to larger females.
4. We found out that it takes shrimp at least 75 days to reach the first maturity.
5. It reproduces throughout the year in the aquarium.
6. It is better to keep newly hatched shrimplets in slight saline water (5-10 ppt). This will help to avoid infestation and mortality due to clitellate annelid because this parasite cannot tolerate saline water.
The findings of this study can be used as a guideline for culturist interested in the mass production of this ornamental shrimp for the aquarium industry.
Hello Michael, i’m an assiduous reader of your website, it has value information and i have learned a lot with it, i am very new in this hobby so thanks for your sharing information. i have a question, recently and for the first time my females have eggs, in this journey of approximately 30 days do i can water changes?
Best Regards – From Portugal
Rui
Hi Rui Ferreira,
Of course, you can do it.
Water changes must be done systematically. Personally, I beleive that once every 2 weeks (10-20%).
Massive and/or frequent water changes can cause molting problems for you shrimp.
Best regards,
Michael
Thank you for the answer micheal 🙂 another doubt is which is the best way to raise shlightly the ph in my shrimp tank? The value that i obtain by testing is always approximately 6.4 , more or less. Or it is an acceptable value? Thank you for your help 🙂
Best Regards
Rui
Rui, you are welcome 🙂
Red Cherry shrimp can survive at pH below 7.0. However, it is not recommended. This is not their optimal pH.
I need more information (all) about your aquarium set up (and what you use) to give you an answer.
There are lots of factors that can affect your pH, for example:
– an active substrate,
– lots of driftwood,
– lots of leaves,
– plant fertilizers,
– even ammonia.
Read my article about pH.
Ideally, if you want to controle your water parameters, use RO/DI water with shrimp remineralizers. It will save you a lot of troubles.
Best regards,
Michael
Hello Michael,
n terms of set up it is a 22 LT tank and natural substrate (which i think it was not the smartest move for a beginner, but how they say, we learn with the mistakes). It is decorated with river rocks, and plants like: java moss, java fern, marsilea hirsuta and hygrophila polysperma, the water used is tap water (the quality of water is very good here) and the cycling was about 1 month before inducing the firsts shrimp, there are in total 12 red cherry. In terms of water parameters there are:
N03 – 0;
N02- 0;
GH 4-7;
KH- 6-10;
Cl – 0;
PH – 6.4 or lower;
TDS – i do not now the value;
I really don’t know what is causing the low ph and how to fix it or if its necessary or if it exists any problem. Unfortunately i had already 2 shrimps dead and the female lost here eggs.
First of all I’d advise you to read the article about GH and KH. Regarding TDS, you will have to buy a TDS pen. You can also find more about it in my article here.
Carbonate hardness and Alkalinity as synonyms but not the same! Out test kits measure alkalinity.
It seems like there is a lot of K or Na in your water. As a result the KH level shoots through the roof. In addition, you have an active substrate.
It can be extremely difficult to increase pH with high KH because high KH level will not let it (pH) fluctuate.
Therefore, as fas as I see it, you need to decrease KH first. One of the options is to use distilled (or RO/DI) water.
Warning: do it gradually! Do not do massive water changes. It can go wrong in so many ways that, basically, it is not possible to predict.
Ideally, use shrimp miniralizers when you prepare RO/DI or distilled water.
Sorry, but there is no fast and safe way, in your case.
Best regards,
Michael
Hello, I have a very specific question about breeding. I got 3 adult females and one adult male, and two shrimplets.
I watch them on a daily basis, and found that the male is only interested by one female (not the youngest nor the oldest). They mated two times, and each time the eggs matured for around 25. Despite the large number of eggs, only two shrimplets where born, probably from the second mating.
Since then, it happens that this female lay some eggs, but they disappear rapidly in one or two days.
About the other females, the youngest never laid eggs despite of having a saddle and it happened only one or two times with the oldest, but with eggs disappearing rapidly.
My questions are :
– Are neocaridina shrimps monogamous ?
– Can neocaridina lay eggs which are not fertilized ? My guess is yes.
– Can male or female become infertile or lazy after having mated one, two, three times … ?
– Do males require time to produce “sperm” and is there a particular timing for mating ? For instance, if the female molts when the saddle has ripen while the male is not “ready”, it results in unfertilized eggs.
Best regards
Hi David Rogers,
– Are neocaridina shrimps monogamous ?
No, they are absolutely not monogamous.
– Can neocaridina lay eggs which are not fertilized ?
Yes. However, the females will shed the unfertilized eggs in a few days.
– Can male or female become infertile or lazy after having mated one, two, three times … ?
Possible.
– Do males require time to produce “sperm” and is there a particular timing for mating ? For instance, if the female molts when the saddle has ripen while the male is not “ready”, it results in unfertilized eggs.
I do not know the exact timing and I have not seen this information in the studies but, generally, males are always ready to mate. You have the best shrimp male to female ration. So, male shrimp should not be too tired to do the ‘job’.
Best regards,
Michael
Hi Michael,
Thank you for your rapid answers.
Best regards,
D. Rogers
A good thing about Cherry Shrimp is that they will breed in a fresh water aquarium. A female shrimp will carry her eggs under her tail, and that means she is berried . When a female shrimp is berried, its important to place a fine sponge pre-filter on power filter intakes to make sure that the baby shrimp do not get sucked up into the filter when the eggs hatch. Its also a good idea to make sure there are many live plants that can grow fine dense leaves, like Anacharis , Cabomba or Water Sprite, so the baby shrimp have a place to hide as they grow.
Red Cherry Shrimp are great scavengers that will help keep a tank clean of uneaten food and debris like Amano Shrimp and Nerite Snails do. But because of their small size, they really won t consume as much as some of the larger tank cleaners . So do not think of these shrimp as tank cleaning miracle workers. Think of them as pets in their own right. Keeping Cherry Shrimp, or other tank cleaning species is not a substitute for proper tank maintenance.
Hi Marineth,
I do agree with you, shrimp cannot replace proper tank maintenance.
However, they can greatly benefit!
Best regards,
Michael
Hi, Michael.
My question is, How do I avoid newborn shrimp fry from being sucked and killed by the water filter? Should I remove the filter whenever I notice a female gave birth?
How safe would it be to just remove the filter forever and leave the plants to do all the oxigenation?
Best regards, thank you.
Hi Santiago,
There is no need to remove your filter. Actually, it can be even dangerous to the eco-balance in your tank. Without enough beneficial bacteria, it can crush the cycle.
To prevent losses, you will need to use an extra pre-filter in the form of a sponge to prevent baby shrimp from being sucked in.
You can buy it on the market (link to check the price on Amazon) or even do it yourself if you have a spare sponge.
Best regards,
Michael
How often does cherry shrimp lay eggs, or how many times a year ?
Hi Ed,
It depends on how happy they are in the tank.
Under optimal conditions, Cherry shrimp can easily mate 5-6 times a year.
Best regards,
Michael
Hi
Please let me know, How many times will a shrimp breed during its life span?
Thank You
Hi Adil Mahmood,
Generally, dwarf shrimp live 1.5 years. They reach maturity at 75-80 days of age (let it be 3 months, in our case).
Theoretically, females can breed every month. Keep in mind that frequent mating negatively affects dwarf shrimp.
Therefore, under optimal conditions, they can breed 18-3=15 times.
Best regards,
Michael
I have four different deliveries of shrimp. I had a blue, a yellow and an orange cherry shrimp. Some of the shrimplets are over six weeks old and none are showing any coloration.
Please advise!
Thank you.
Hi Yvonne,
It can be genetics. Maybe they are under stress, it can also affect their coloration.
What do you feed them?
Check out my article – How to Enhance Shrimp Color?
Best regards,
Michael
Hi Yvonne,
Bright or bold colors in many pets are achieved through selective breeding to pair the recessive genes that will produce the desired colors. Often, when we “mix” different colors, the recessive “pairing” doesn’t happen and nature reverts to the original, “wilder” shade. In the case of cherry shrimp it would be a basic brown. I am not aware of shrimp producing “piebald” offspring. I would recommend you not breed the brown ones if they survive. I would also recommend your separate your shrimp into distinct color groups to improve your chances.
Hi Craig,
This selective breeding is usually called – Culling. Read more about it here.
Best regards.
I was wondering when it is safe to rehome the shrimplets? The 60 day mark or 75? I imagine not before that, correct? They are only a few days right now.
Thank you
Hi Tara,
Actually, it is the opposite.
Baby shrimp tolerate transportation way easier than adult shrimp. This is, probably, because they molt frequently.
Therefore, once they are half-grown you can move them.
Best regards,
Michael
Hello Guys i don’t know if that’s wise to reply or ask here , but i will try .
Yesterday I bought 3 Berried Females from a pet shop and my question is what is the chance that they will keep the eggs after transferring to new Environment
The tank with good parameters and a lot plants and hiding places with driftwood and my original females also got berried before days , Is the new female will keep along with others and keeps the eggs and by the way the new females eat as regular and looks good to me !
Hi Jehad Khmaise,
It only depends on how different your parameters are from the parameters they were bred.
As I wrote in one of my articles, your parameters (which can be great, by the way) can be suboptimal for other shrimp simply because these shrimp may have already been accustomed to less ‘ideal’ water parameters. As a result, any attempt to introduce them to other water conditions can shock them.
Generally, if water parameters are not different, there is a high chance that they will not drop the eggs.
Best regards,
Michael
Great article. I recently found a shrimplet in my tank. I bought some online and thought only 7 had survived. But today I found a 10 mm shrimp in my tank, was right up against the glass so easy to measure.
(all my other shrimp have been photographed so I know this isnt one of them).
So how old is this tiny shrimp? It’s a speckled red color.
(I literally floated the bag of shrimp into my tank after drip acclimatization so it could have been hiding under the big shrimp).
Hi Pam,
There are many factors that can affect growth rates, such as: temperature, diet, environment, and even density!
Generally, Neocaridina shrimp can reach 10 mm (0.4 inches) in 1 – 1.5 months once a proper aquarium is set up and optimum living conditions are met.
Best regards,
Michael
Thanks for sharing excellent information. Your site is so cool. I am impressed by the details that you have on this blog. It reveals how nicely you understand shrimp keeping. You, ROCK! I found simply the information I already searched everywhere and simply could not come across. What an ideal site.
Great content, Michael – thank you!
Question: I currently have a red cherry and a crystal red set up in a mesh breeder basket with a few fake plant leaves and some almond leaf and an apple snail to help with cleanup.
I put them in there as both are berried. Should I have any concerns with keeping them all together in the little floating box? If it’s ok, when is a good time to release the youngins?
Shel
Hi Shel,
Thank you!
As for your question, yes, you should be concerned.
The main problem is that cherry shrimp and crystal red shrimp have different requirements. Crystals do not like pH >6.8, whereas cherry shrimp prefer pH >7.0
As a result, one of your colonies will suffer and, eventually, it will be outcompeted.
What do you mean by releasing the young?
Best regards,
Michael
Wonderful article. Most thorough I’ve encountered in the space.
Do adult shrimp ever predate on young offspring? Thank you
Hi Justin,
Thank you!
Generally, they are not cannibalistic.
However, they will eat badly injured tankmates. In addition, shrimp need food diversity to get all microelements for a healthy life. They also need protein (30-40 % of their diet). So, if do not have enough food for a long time, they may turn against weaker or smaller individuals.
It does not happen often. Actually, it is a sign that they are starving to death or there are some other fundamental problems with their diet.
Best regards,
Michael
Thank you for such helpful articles. Wonder how a guppy breeding trap might work to confine females and raise their shrimplets? A year ago, I bought Yellow Neocaridina from two different vendors and put all 30 shrimp together in a 10 gal planted tank with plenty of algae/biofilm. I expected to have a nice breeding colony, but alas, now I have less than 6 adults total, plus maybe 1-2 juveniles. As a last ditch effort to rescue them, a few days ago I put 3 smallish (young?) females (pregnant?) into a trap suspended in the 10 gal tank. The females seem to be okay in the trap with matt algae and eating spirulina pellet crumbs, Bacter AE, etc. In contrast to problems with these pampered Yellows (no fish in their tank), I have gotten Red and Blue Neocaridina strains multiplying fine in guppy tanks with much less hassle.
Hi Diana Walstad,
First of all, I am a huge fan of yours 🙂 Thank you for your book “Ecology of the Planted Aquarium”, it was like a revelation to me when I read it for the first time (long time ago).
As for your situation with breeding trap, I do not really understant the point. Is it protection from the males’ frenziness? It shouild not be a problem in planted tanks.
Unfortunately, even if we do everything right, things don’t always turn out OK. I have seen tanks that should have been perfect for shrimp but they failed, however, after resetting, everything was fine.
Best regards,
Michael
Hi Michael,
We have a 3 gallon tank, had some fish, but they died one by one. It was devastating for myself and the kids. When I took the remaining two, that were still alive, back to the shop, they suggested we don’t give up, and try shrimp instead.
So I thought, why not?
So we got 10 shrimp for our 3 gallon and a couple of plants. Stuck the plants and the shrimp in the tank. That was about 2 weeks ago. We got 2 orange ones, two dark green ones, two red ones and one light green one and one light blue one, and two clear ones that seem different some how.
Now two of the shrimp have got eggs, maybe a third one, I have been looking up all about shrimp now, and so I know a saddle when I see it, and another 3 of them have saddles. One Orange one, and one green one have eggs, and the light green one and light blue one and one clear one have the saddles.
My question is this, if all these shrimp have babies shrimps what am I going to do? Surly you can’t have 100s of shrimp in a 3 gallon tank, or can you? 😂
Thanks,
From Kerry
Hi Kerry,
It is really great that shrimp keeping is working for you!
Nothing is impossible 🙂
Sure, it will be a bit too much to have hundreds of shrimp in a nano tank but I would not worry much anyway.
Your shrimp will find the balance on their own. Shrimp density is important for professional breeders, it allows them to get optimal results.
You can find more information about it in my article “How Many Shrimp Can I Have in My Tank?“.
Best regards,
Michael
Hey! This is a phenomenal bit of information! Absolutely love reading your cornucopia of information. I did have one question. how many times will a female be able to have a successful breeding cycle. also what is the most healthy amount to not stress them either?
Hi Michael Meyer,
Thank you! I am glad to hear that you liked it 🙂
As for your question, let’s calculate.
Dwarf shrimp can live up to 2 years. They mature at 75-80 days old (let’s round up to 3 months). Females carry eggs for about 25 – 35 days. Therefore, theoretically, females are able to reproduce up to 20 times during their lifespan.
However, considering the fact that they also need to molt prior to mating and periods of time between molts are increasing with time … I would say that their maximum is around 10 times.
This is still a lot, considering the fact that, according to the study multiple mating (at least for the initial 6 consecutive times) partially affected reproduction and led to high female mortality (because of physical exhaustion).
You can read more about these experiments in my article “How Frequent Mating Affects Dwarf Shrimp“.
Best regards,
Michael
How long from breeding with male does the female display eggs under her tail?
Hi Dayna Beck,
Usually, this process can take anywhere from a few hours to 24 hours. The reason for this is that it is tied to the molting process, during which the females are physically able to move the eggs from the saddle to the abdomen.
Best regards,
Michael
Hi!
Great site for information. I have a community tank that includes shrimp, ember tetra, Cory cats, Kuli loach and pleco. I see shrimp berried but haven’t seen any young. I suspect they are being eaten even through the tank is heavily planted. I gently guided a berried female (dark eggs) into a 2gallon ziploc bag and clipped the top open in the tank then added moss and floating plants to hide in. She seems ok. My question is how long can I keep her like this? I can do daily water exchange with the tank and the temp is stable because she’s in the tank in the bag. I want to save the young if possible until they are safe from other fish.
Hi Andrea,
Thank you for your kind words!
Regarding your question, there is no exact answer because the condition of any aquarium is individual and depends on how you can maintain stable water parameters. If you don’t have any issues with this, you’ll be able to breed shrimp. However, if the shrimp are not comfortable, they may drop eggs and/or molt due to stress.
Best regards,
Michael